Cycling in Zagori Photo Essay: Discovering Greece’s Hidden Mountains

Zagori remains one of Greece’s best-kept secrets. Hidden away in the rugged Epirus region of northwestern Greece, home to 46 stone-built mountain villages, that preserve a traditional way of life that has been long forgotten elsewhere. Once a thriving 18th-century staging point for wealthy Ottoman traders on the historic silk routes, it is now a sanctuary for slow travel.

When photographer Chris Joubert joined us for a cycling in Zagori spring e-bike tour, his camera perfectly captured the quiet majesty of the region. For our Operations Director, Sally, who spent years living and working in these mountains as a host, Chris's images are a vivid reminder of why she fell in love with this landscape. In this article, she explains what it is about his photography that captures the essence of this region so brilliantly, and why Zagori, Greece deserves to be next on your travel list.

Dramatic Mountains & The Deepest Canyon on Earth

The character of the Pindus Mountains is defined by its geography, the breathtaking Vikos Gorge is a colossal limestone canyon that cleaves through the landscape. Formally recognised by the Guinness Book of World Records as the deepest gorge in the world relative to its width, and Chris has found a way to make this geological marvel look like magic. His photos start from far above the breathtaking canyon, from a distance, it's hard to believe that anything could live in its rocky depths, but up close we see that it's home to a huge range of flora, including endemic medicinal herbs and wild orchids found nowhere else on earth.

The Vikos Gorge may be Zagori's most eye-catching landscape, but there's plenty more to discover. Cycling through Zagori, you'll discover rolling poppy fields, dense oak and pine forests, and high mountain pastures, all best viewed from the saddle, or from a picnic table up high with a glass of local Greek white wine in hand.

Exploring by E-Bike, Walking and Wild Swimming

The cycling in Zagori is some of the most spectacular, uninterrupted riding, not just in Greece, but in the whole of southern Europe. We stick to almost exclusively smooth, quiet tarmac roads, with barely anyone to be seen and virtually no cars or traffic. One of the most iconic stretches of road features the sweeping switchbacks you can see in the photo above, leading up to the charming village of Papigo. While the steep climbs of the Pindus range can be intimidating, the modern e-bike motors mean you can comfortably glide up the ascents, allowing you to focus on the increasingly magnificent panoramic views.

There are plenty of opportunities to explore off the bikes, too. Zagori is a dream for hikers and walkers. Ancient cobbled footpaths (kalderimia) link the villages, guiding you past old monasteries and deep into the woods. For wild swimming, the mountain rivers hide crystal-clear, emerald rock pools. A personal favourite is a natural swimming hole hidden near the village of Kipi; it's undeniably chilly, but beautifully refreshing after a morning in the saddle.

The Zagorochoria: Stone Village Masterpieces

In 2023, the cultural landscape of Zagori was officially declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognising the architectural and historical significance of the Zagorochoria (the 46 stone villages).

These villages are entirely built from the local grey limestone, from the slate-roofed houses and vaulted hearths to the iconic stone-arched bridges that cross the turquoise rivers. These bridges were engineered centuries ago to keep the communities connected during harsh mountain winters. Today, many are slowly being reclaimed by nature, waiting like secrets in the deep forest.

Despite the populations of these villages being tiny - Vradeto, for example, has only three permanent residents - there is still a strong sense of community, offering a window into how life once was in the mountains.

The Heart of the Mountains: The People

There are so many things that make Zagori special, but ultimately, what turns it into an unforgettable journey is the people. Despite small permanent populations, the high-altitude village of Vradeto, for example, has only three year-round residents, but a fierce sense of community remains. We meet some of these fantastic characters on our journey, all keen to show their beautiful home and traditions to Slow Cyclist guests.

Below you can see Yiannis performing with his band, guest house owner Frossi laying out a beautiful breakfast spread in Petroto and chef Lila preparing a feast. These are just some of the people who make our journey so memorable. Travelling here is a perfect example of why we travel slow, it’s taking a moment to sit in a village square watching a traditional panigiri (festival) come alive with local musicians. It's waking up to an elaborate mountain breakfast of wild herb pies prepared by local guesthouse owners, or spending an afternoon exploring the deep woods with local characters who know the mountains intimately.

Whether you are looking for a challenging mountain ride, a deep dive into European history, or a quiet, mindful moment away from the modern world, Zagori offers a version of Greece you likely didn't know existed.