Reflections From the Côa Valley, Portugal

Tucked away in the North of Portugal, close to the border of Spain, lies the Côa Valley, an expansive and unexplored wilderness of picturesque hilltop villages, river gorges, oak forests, rocky heathlands and scattered fields bounded by granite dry-stone walls. The Côa Valley is a haven away from busy cities, with a rugged and dramatic landscape far removed from the well-trodden tourist trails.

Visiting Côa is like stepping back in time to a slower, more relaxed rhythm of life. It is a chance to experience the real Portugal, where you’ll find locals who know every nook and cranny and are genuinely pleased to see you.

The Côa Valley is also home to one of Europe's most ambitious rewilding projects. The Faia Brava regeneration project is one of the 10 charities we are raising money for to celebrate our 10-year anniversary; you can read more about their efforts here. The work along the Côa River endeavours to rebuild and reclaim the natural habitats of Iberian wolves, Sorraia wild horses, tauros cattle, griffon vultures and golden eagles.

Leading our guests through the landscape are Nuno and Julia, a husband-and-wife team who call the nearby Serra da Estrela home. We asked them both what made their first season guiding for The Slow Cyclist so special. For Nuno, a former bank manager from the Alentejo, the transition to guiding was an easy choice. He says that working for The Slow Cyclist and ‘guiding guests is definitely much more fun!’

Julia adds that they moved to the Côa Valley for the ‘different landscapes, quiet spots, friendly people, good food and excellent wines.’

Together, they offer a window into what makes this region so unique. For Julia, the Côa ‘Valley is the place to find ‘true, authentic Portuguese culture,’ defined by 'villages built from ancient stone where every corner seems to tell its own story.’

Nuno agrees, noting that the silence and open landscapes are what set the area apart. ‘The villages in the Côa Valley are small, but the people there welcome us with a smile,’ he tells us. ‘It feels like a privilege to ride through it.’

Looking back on their first year of guiding Slow Cyclists, Nuno says, ‘I was nervous at the beginning, but the first trip went really well and everything started to feel really natural. Everyone treated us in such a friendly way and we felt like part of the family right from the start.’

‘It went by really fast,’ adds Julia. ‘I learned so many new things from my colleagues and I’ve learned so many interesting things about British culture from our guests!’

Both of our wonderful guides agree that the magic of these journeys often happens off the bike. While Nuno loves to keep the electric bikes that guests ride in perfect condition (especially when guests notice!), he admits his favourite memories are ‘the laughing, the dancing, and the conversations over a shared tipple of homemade local liqueur.’

Julia adds that the trips offer everyone involved a chance to ‘take a break from our screens to enjoy each other's company’" whether that’s watching majestic vultures soaring overhead or simply swapping life stories with guests.

Looking forward to the 2026 season, Nuno and Julia are hard at work, improving routes and waiting for the first spring flowers to bloom bringing new and returning guests back to the valley. As Julia puts it: ‘We shared laughter, tears of joy, warm hugs, and a feeling of being exactly where we belonged.’

Are you ready to slow down, disconnect and experience the real Portugal? Our 2026 journeys to Portugal's Côa Valley run in spring and early autumn. Discover Portugal's best-kept secret for yourself.